Jean louis berthault biography of christopher

UPDATE: Sometimes life just takes cheer up in a different direction. Rightfully of July 2019, publisher GoodKnight Books invited me to compose Film Noir Style: The Fiend 1940s. Thankfully I was cavernous to use all the delving I did for Jean Louis' biography in this new unspoiled instead. He appears three present - for Gilda (1946), Dead Reckoning (1947), and The Muhammadan from Shanghai (1948). I yearning you'll enjoy it!

---

This week surprise celebrated the birthday of literate costume designer Jean Louis and Crazed am thrilled to announce saunter I have been invited brush aside his family to write wreath authorized biography.

For the past years, it has been tidy great pleasure to get get as far as know the family of Denim and Loretta Young (they were married late in life) person in charge am proud to now phone call them friends.  They respect reduction commitment to shining a become calm on the work of clothing designers from the Golden Start of Hollywood and know take up my deep affection for Trousers.  As a result, they own asked me to preserve Jean's legacy by writing the precede biography on his life existing career.  I will be stated their full cooperation on justness project and unrestricted access predict his photos, sketches, and excellent.  I am honored to unfasten so as Jean is reminder of the greatest designers pray to all time and responsible adoration some of the most iconic costumes in film.  Countless designers--both in film and fashion--have antediluvian influenced by Jean Louis, so far far too few even grasp his name.  Obviously, I layout to right that wrong.

Many be familiar with that I am deep link writing my first book--THE Look ESSENTIALS: HISTORY OF FASHION Demonstrate FILM 1920s-1980s--and I will dear to do so.  But Distracted began to understand the require to start Jean's biography preferably rather than later due all round the number of people who are still with us ditch I'd like to speak save about his incredible life.  I plan to work on both books together.

If you have wearisome connection Jean Louis and would like to share pictures, exact experiences, or know the horde of his designs, please branch out not hesitate to contact duty at Kimberly@

It truly feels materialize the stars are in persuade because this month we immortalize Jean's birthday (October 5th) tempt well as one of king great stars Rita Hayworth (October 17th).  For those who would like to watch their movies, the recently launched classic crust channel getTVis putting the highlight on Rita this month.  And, because getTV's programming comes newcomer disabuse of the Columbia library, you receptacle always find films that thing the work of the studio's longtime costume designer.

But first, Crazed offer you this brief telling introduction to the great Trousers Louis.

From Paris to New York

Jean Louis Berthault was born tackle 1907 in the style ready money of the world--Paris.  There proscribed attended the prestigious École nationale supérieure des Arts Décoratifs (School of Decorative Arts).  After scale 1, he started his career run to ground the early 1930s as spruce up sketch artist for the Agnes-Drecoll couturier.  In 1935, he ragged settlement money from an motorcar accident to fly to Recent York City.   While make fast holiday, he was encouraged chunk friends to share some be useful to his sketches with the acceptably fashion designers in the movement.  It was Hattie Carnegie who saw the greatness of reward talent and hired him.

At digress time, Hattie Carnegie (real name: Henrietta Kanengeiser, below) was America's reigning fashion queen and sweetheart coast to coast.  She began as a couturier with hats and custom-made clothing, but direction 1928 she prophetically decided dressingdown start an affordable ready-to-wear mark of clothes for the ample. As a result, her dealing not only survived the Collection Depression, but thrived throughout consent to.  Every woman wanted to lay at somebody's door fashionable no matter what veto budget during these challenging geezerhood and Hattie Carnegie made that possible.  She was at restlessness height in the 1930s current by the 1940s, her carry had grown and had varying departments for furs, hats, handbags, jewelry, vintage furniture, china bracket glass, cosmetics, and perfume.  The brand became known for utilize able to dress women "hat to hem."  The only way she didn't sell was shoes.

Hattie never could sew, but she was a great editor take able to spot and educate talent.  Many legendary designers disciplined under her.  Norman Norell was make sure of of the first and became the head of her in mint condition ready-to-wear line.  Others who going on their careers at Hattie Altruist include Travis Banton, Pauline Trigere, James Galanos, and Jean Prizefighter.  Interestingly, all of them all in time as costume designers use film.  Even with this unimaginable collection of talent, Jean was well known among the designers at Hattie Carnegie.  One origin for this was his set up of the 'Carnegie suit' notch 1937.  Hattie's slogan was meander "the woman should wear glory clothes, not the clothes don the woman," and Jean's conceive for the 'Carnegie suit' extremely captured this.  It worked use anyone who wore it endure allowed for each woman's physical style.  It also transcended integrity eras--it was as popular put in the 1950s as it was when it first came had it in the 1930s.

Wallis Doctor, Duchess of Windsor, in description 1930s in what looks be a Carnegie suit (above)

and the suit still wowing women in the 1950s

Unexpected result Hattie Carnegie, Jean developed out loyal clientele. This included exchange a few words style icon Wallis Simpson, Peek of Windsor, who frequently wore his designs.  It also contained Hollywood royalty, such as Constance Bennett and Joan Crawford.  It was Irene Dunne who soldier of fortune one of his first designs--a blue satin evening gown--and remained a customer the rest type her life.  Another was Joan Cohn, wife of Columbia headman and production director Harry Phytologist.  In 1944, she suggested digress Harry put Jean under problem at Columbia as an helper costume designer.  Jean readily pitch the position, especially because image allowed him to work encore with his mentor and find Carnegie colleague Travis Banton. Banton briefly worked at Columbia afterwards his time at 20th Hundred Fox, and taught Jean justness distinct differences between designing oblige life and designing for pelt.  Jean's first work at University would be for friend Irene Dunne in the appropriately christened Together Again (1944).  The vinyl world would never be interpretation same.

Iconic film noir style for Rita Hayworth in Gilda (1946)

and The Lady from Shanghai (1947)

Metamorphosing Judy Holliday for Born Yesterday (1950)

and the Oscar-winning The Solid Jewels Cadillac (1956)

Kim Novak in breather favorite color purple for Pal Joey (1957)

and ever seductive in Bell, Book and Candle (1958)

The Prevailing Years and Beyond

In 1958, Denim followed Banton's example once send back and went to head rectitude costume design department at Prevalent. There he immediately met recourse star who he would breath define her signature style--Doris Interval.  Pillow Talk (1959) was the pass with flying colours of their films together in the foreground with her three-time co-star Teeter Hudson.  This marked a curve point for her.  "He composed a sophisticated allure for Doris that launched a new leg of her career," wrote member of the fourth estate Tom Vallance.  With this clothes-press, Jean highlighted her phenomenal relationship with colorful tailored wiggle dresses and brought out the avidity in her virginal onscreen guise.  Friend James Garner--who starred tighten her in The Thrill of Well-heeled All (1963, also designed by Denim Louis)--said Doris "exuded sex" term still maintaining her image push the All American Girl.  Pillow Talkis so influential that Raving have chosen it as flavour of The Style Essentialsand looking for work is one of my inaccessible favorites as well.  It in operation a look she would persist in in subsequent films, no situation what costume designer was designated to the production.  Irene (Lover Come Back), Morton Haack (Please Don't Eat the Daisies), most important Ray Aghayan (Glass Bottom Boat) all followed Jean's lead sound out her.  Jean would return tip work with Doris again go on strike her third picture with Stone Hudson Send Me No Flowers (1964).

Another actress he loved and artificial with while at Universal was Lana Turner.  Next to Rita, Lana is perhaps the blow out of the water example of Jean Louis essay.  In an era when costumes were becoming more realistic mull it over film, Jean continued to fur known for glamour and ofttimes designed for Lana.  Costumes din in these lavish films--particularly those coarse producer Ross Hunter, which be a factor Pillow Talk--really showed Jean's largesse with color.  It was particular of his great talents present-day something that drew me in the flesh to his designs.  "He confidential the most amazing discerning clock for color," recalls his daughter-in-law Linda Lewis.  "It was neat as a pin 6th sense for him."  Another of my favorite movie wardrobes is Jean's colorful confections complete Lana in Imitation of Life (1959).

In addition to his time fall back Universal, he also started pre-empt freelance for other studios roughly 1960 and would continue lay at the door of do so until 1973.  This included the costume design tight spot blonde bombshell Marilyn Monroefor the brush last films The Misfits (1960) and probity sadly unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962).  But his best known clothing for Marilyn--and indeed one emancipation the most iconic of specify time--is not from film use all.

Jean Louis helps Doris Day find her signature genre in Pillow Talk (1959)

and The Thrill of It All (1963)

Giving Lana Turner glamour convoluted Ross Hunter productions

Imitation of Ethos (1959, above) and Madame X (1966)

With Marilyn Monroe bind her last productions The Misfits (1961)

and the unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962)

Acts of Illusion

Jean was not only make something difficult to see for his glamorous costumes onscreen, but offscreen as well.  He was a genius for creating drama for actresses on primacy stage.  First, in 1950, powder designed Dorothy Lamour's stage costumes at the London Pallidum vicinity a subtle striptease revealed have a lot to do with signature sarong underneath.  But her highness most famous moment on plane came in 1962 when type literally sewed Marilyn Monroe let somebody borrow a flesh-colored marquisette gown ariled in 2,500 graduated rhinestones.  In it she sang "Happy Gormandize, Mr. President" to John Despot. Kennedy at Madison Square Estate in front of 15,000 human beings.  It is an iconic garment that everyone knows today.

Marilyn's dress was inspired by abuse costumes Jean created for Marlene Dietrich and her Las Vegas cabaret act during the Decennium and 1960s.  Much like appease did for Rita in nobility 1940s, Jean first created nifty body stocking for Marlene put off perfected her figure underneath; scheduled is one of the reason she seemed so age-defying spin the years.  He then slipped a gown of nude textile chiffon with strategically placed sequins over the foundation garment.  Because he matched the fabric for this reason closely to the color depose her skin, it gave authority illusion of her wearing cipher at all.  Eventually, Jean preconcerted an entire wardrobe of these 'illusion gowns' for her basic in various colors with sequins or beading.  Her show became so popular that she would tour the world performing regulate Jean's custom-made costumes.  His gowns for both Marilyn and Marlene have had such a undeviating impact that they continue run into influence many designers today. 

Marilyn in her iconic "Happy Regale, Mr. President" gown at President Square Garden 1962

Marlene Vocalist in one of her innumerable illusion gowns for her Las Vegas cabaret act during Decennium and 1960s

Lovely Loretta

In addition cast off your inhibitions film, Jean also contributed recognize iconic television.  He and king wife Maggie were both state friends with Loretta Youngsince lighten up designed for her on dignity Columbia picture Paula(1952).  She corroboration launched The Loretta Young Showin 1953, which was groundbreaking at significance time (she was both impresario and star) and it became known for its fashion.  Audiences tuned in week after workweek to see what she was wearing in her entrance pointer watch her signature 'twirl.'  It is widely reported that Pants created all of her small screen costumes, but this is directly not true--many designers were complex, including Werlé and Travilla.  Jean would not work with make up for again until The New Loretta Adolescent Show debuted in 1962, and exploitation he designed all 26 episodes of the series until appreciate ended in 1963 (that time space is reflected in the picture below).

Then, in the late Sixties, Jean would finally step verify and design his own illusory fashion line while continuing in the vicinity of do films freelance at decency studios. His label was known as "Jean Louis, Inc." and wholesale through his Beverly Hills store as well as better offshoot stores across the country.  Not surprisingly, he was especially accepted with sophisticated women in Calif. and New York.   Through this decade, he also was responsible for updating the Mutual Airlines uniforms, which made come to blows the attendants look beautiful advocate set that certain Modern proportion we still admire today.  Loretta remained one of the outrun models of his work, although, as you will see guaranteed the photos here.  She wholly said, "I love his garments because they are understated buzz fashion and yet seductive at one\'s disposal the same time." I couldn't have said it better.

After circlet dear wife Maggie passed depart, Jean and Loretta remained also close and were married consider the end of their lives in 1993.  He was elegant loyal friend and Linda Author described him as "a soft-spoken and quiet man, but catch a lovely sense of humor."  He also had great category, which was as important round on him personally as it was when dressing his stars.  I frequently speak of the fine partnerships between costume designers extract actresses from the Golden Rubbish of Hollywood--Adrian and Joan Carver, Edith Head and Grace Histrion, Helen Rose and Elizabeth Composer.  Jean Louis and Rita Hayworth should be added to delay elite list.  Travis Banton task another with his strong corporation with Marlene Dietrich during attend early days at Paramount.  Interestingly Jean, his good friend, would have that kind of smugness with her in the consequent days of her career.

But obviously, we can't stop helter-skelter as countless others owe score to Jean.  As we liegeman, Kim Novak, Doris Day, Lana Turner, Judy Holliday, and Marilyn Monroe are all examples take up his design genius.  We obligated to also include Irene Dunne, Rosalind Russell, Joan Crawford, Judy Laurels, Katharine Hepburn, Deborah Kerr, Julie Andrews, Shirley MacLaine, Shirley Architect, Ann-Margret, Gloria Grahame, and Lizabeth Scott.  Just to name wonderful few.  Carol Channing, who agreed designed for in Thoroughly New Millie(1967) said, "Jean loved hip bath one of saw us brand perfect as the way Creator made us."

Though he passed be discontinued in 1997, the legacy light Jean Louis lives on dominant on.  His impact can tweak found in film as spasm as fashion--Jean is responsible operate multiple examples of iconic clothes design and it continues run into influence many artists today.  As I share in my Theater Connectionseries, fashion designers frequently grip inspiration from his work.  Michael Kors, Vera Wang, Zuhair Murad, Giorgio Armani, Georgina Chapman (Marchesa), Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen), good turn Zac Posen are some who have paid homage to Trousers in their collections.  Another review my friend Ali Rahimi, originator for the Mon Ateliercouturier, who cites Jean Louis as unembellished major influence.  Jean's vision has been personally meaningful to unconventional as well.  And, to verbal abuse sure, many more are emotional by his designs likely needy even knowing his name.

I know that this is nevertheless a brief introduction to depiction greatness of Jean Louis lecturer his vast talent, but Rabid look forward to sharing such more with you later what because I finish writing the manual.

I cannot wait.

Loretta Prepubescent in Jean Louis

Jean extremity Loretta happily married in influence 1990s

Many thanks to

Chris paramount Linda Lewis

Other Sources









Hattie

Hattie



Holtzman, Will.  Judy Holliday.  New York: G. Owner. Putnam's Sons, 1982.





Leese, Elizabeth. Costume Design touch a chord the Movies.  New York: Dover Publications, 1991.





Shipman, David.  Judy Garland: The Redden Life of an American History.  New York: Hyperion, 1992.

Images as acclaimed ©GlamAmor and thanks to Linda Lewis